Explore the exhilarating sport of technical rock climbing. From natural rock formations to artificial walls, we cover it all. Enhance your strength, endurance, agility, and balance while enjoying the thrill of reaching new heights. Learn proper techniques and find specialised equipment for a safe climbing experience. We offer insights into this physically and mentally demanding sport. We provide valuable information on climbing techniques, specialised equipment, and the different styles within this challenging sport.

Rock climbing is a sport.

Rock climbing is a hobby and a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural rock formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing is a physically and mentally demanding sport that often tests a climber’s strength, endurance, agility, and balance, along with mental control. Knowledge of proper climbing techniques and the use of specialised climbing equipment is crucial for the safe completion of routes.

Although climbing Mount Kenya can be done year-round, the highest rainfall occurs between late March and the middle of May. The rain is slightly less between late October and mid-December. Maximum rainfall occurs in the forest belt and on the southeast side of the mountain. Here it reaches 2500mm. per year at 3000m.

Temperatures vary considerably with height and with the time of day. Frosts can be encountered at night as low as 3,000m, while day temperatures range from 5 to 15°C. Nighttime temperatures on the summit are well below freezing. The south-facing side of Mount Kenya receives more sunshine in the December–March period. During this time, rock climbs are “in condition,” and snow and ice climbs gradually deteriorate. The best time to climb Nelion and Batian via the SE Normal route is from December to March. The best months to do standard North Face are between June and September.

Rock climbing disciplines.

Rock climbing encompasses a wide range of styles and sub-disciplines, each with its own unique challenges and techniques. Here’s a brief overview of some of the main styles:

1. Sport Climbing: Sport climbing involves climbing routes that are equipped with fixed protection, such as bolts drilled into the rock. Climbers use quickdraws to attach their ropes to these bolts as they ascend the route. Sport climbing is often characterised by shorter, more technical climbs with a focus on strength and endurance.
2. Traditional Climbing (Trad Climbing): Trad climbing, also known as traditional climbing, involves placing removable protection, such as cams, nuts, and hexes, into cracks and other features in the rock as the climber ascends. Unlike sport climbing, where the protection is pre-placed, trad climbers must carry and place their own gear, making it a more self-reliant and technically demanding style of climbing.
3. Bouldering: Bouldering is a form of climbing that involves short, powerful routes, typically no higher than 20 feet. Climbers ascend boulders (large rocks or small cliffs) without the use of ropes, relying instead on crash pads and spotters for protection. Bouldering emphasises strength, technique, and problem-solving skills, with a focus on difficult and dynamic movements.
4. Scrambling: Scrambling is a hybrid activity that falls somewhere between hiking and rock climbing. It involves ascending steep terrain that may require the use of hands for balance and support but does not typically involve technical rock climbing skills or the use of ropes. Scrambling routes vary in difficulty, from easy to moderate, and often offer scenic views and adventurous challenges.

These are just a few examples of the diverse styles and sub-disciplines within the world of rock climbing. Each style offers its own unique experience and appeals to climbers with different preferences, skills, and interests. Whether you’re seeking the adrenaline rush of scaling high-altitude trad routes, the problem-solving and technical skills required for bouldering, or the endurance and focus needed for sport climbing, there’s something to suit every climber’s tastes.

Available great rock climbing within Mt Kenya:

1. Batian & Nelion
2. Point John
3. Point John Minor
4. Point Piggot
5. Point Dutton
6. Sendeyo & Terere
7. Point Peter
8. Thompson flake
9. Point Melhuish
10. Delamere peak
11. Point Slade
12. Hausburg col
13. Hyrax of Hausburg col
14. The Temple
15. Authur’s seat
16. The Castle Rock

Technical climb – Point John.

Climb the prominent, wide gully on the southeast face. Take the right-hand branch leading to the main ridge at a prominent, sharp V-notch. The most difficult parts are just before reaching the main ridge, and from here to the summit.

Variation: Where the gully branches, the left-hand route may be taken. This gully, which is less clearly defined, joins the other route on the summit ridge. (Grade III, J I Moore and H C Pereira, Aug. 1949). This gully can be climbed down without abseiling when it’s clear of snow (III). In January 1965, there is a possibility that a group from Cape Town University ascended the tower buttress right of the South-East Gully.

Point Dutton

At the base of the NW face, there are two gullies running parallel to each other. Climb the one on the left-hand side for 50m, exiting where the NW face steepens into polished grey slabs. It is possible to scramble up this to a stance marked by two pitons. From here, ascend straight up, eventually entering an orange dihedral, which exits on the left. At this point, the route moves diagonally in the same direction as the north ridge, following a series of grooves and chimneys before joining the ridge itself some 60m from the summit.

It’s possible to bypass all the main difficulties on the bulk of the N.W. face by following a complex and meandering line of least resistance that finishes on the Western summit ridge. Note that this option is highly dependent on intricate prior knowledge and familiarity with the NW face.

Absolute caution is paramount when navigating the NW face due to the significant risk posed by large and loose blocks. These blocks, perilously positioned throughout various sections of the face, can present a serious hazard to climbers and require careful attention and consideration.

The instability of these blocks can present significant risks, including the potential for rockfall or dislodging of unstable sections during ascent or descent. Climbers should exercise vigilance and take precautions to minimise the likelihood of accidents or injuries.

There are two ways to descend: either scramble down the wide, loose NW gully, or climb or abseil the NW face.

Hyrax of Hausburg Col 

Inviting rock formation, jam-packed with brilliant high-altitude fun. The boulder stands just shy of 4 metres tall at its peak and stretches for about 20 metres end to end. There is a cave underneath the top boulder problem, hopefully still containing a Hyrax skull with lovely fangs/tusks.

Start matched on an undercling in the cave at the end and make your way upwards using the obvious out-jutting jugs. A fine sit-start on the right-hand side of the cave. A knee bar may relieve some of the strain brought about by the altitude. Start matched on the obvious ledge at the bottom of the wallish boulder and head straight up to the top.