The priority for any climber or guide on the mountain is their own health and safety. This can be achieved by understanding and following the simple basic steps.

Most people who have done a bit of reading or research into high-altitude climbing will have read about Mountain Sickness. For those who have not, or for those who want some more information, we have provided this section giving a good overview of mountain sickness and how to prevent it while climbing the mountain.

Mountain sickness on the mountain.

Mountain sickness is the effect of a lack of oxygen on the body. All your organs need oxygen to survive, and when the body doesn’t get enough, problems arise. As you gain altitude, the air pressure drops, and as it drops, your body takes in less air and therefore less oxygen with each breath. To counteract this, your body begins to adapt. Your breathing and heart rate increase, and your body makes more red blood cells to carry oxygen. While your breathing and heart rate can change very quickly, the crucial extra red blood cells take a few days to form. Climbing too far too fast before this process gets properly underway, and the result is AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness).

 Symptoms of Altitude Sickness

Mild symptoms include:

– Headaches*
– Fatigue or weakness
– Loss of appetite
– Nausea or vomiting
– Dizziness or light-headedness
– Insomnia
– Pins and needles
– Shortness of breath upon exertion
– Drowsiness
– Persistent rapid pulse
– Peripheral oedema (swelling of hands, feet, and face)
*Although headaches are a primary symptom used to diagnose altitude sickness, they are also a symptom of dehydration, which can easily occur whilst climbing.

Life-threatening symptoms include:

– Pulmonary oedema: fluid in the lungs, the symptoms of which are a persistent dry cough, fever, and shortness of breath even while resting.

– Cerebral oedema: swelling of the brain, the symptoms of which are a headache that does not respond to painkillers, an unsteady gait, increased vomiting, and a gradual loss of consciousness.

Because visitors ascend the mountain at a slow rate and start walking from a low altitude, the serious problems associated with high-altitude acclimatisation are less frequently encountered. However, the incidence of appetite loss, headache, nausea, and vomiting is higher, affecting, to a greater or lesser extent, 80% or more of the visitors who get above 4,600 m. It should be noted that the majority have very mild symptoms, which can be treated on-site.

Preventing AMS and enjoying your mountain climbing.

It is important to note that almost all severe cases of altitude sickness on the Mountain are climbers on a shoestring budget who have cut days to save money (a false economy as the chances of reaching the summit fall dramatically if days are cut from the ascent).

Pole pole!  Doucement doucement!  Piano piano!  Langsam langsam!  Rustig rustig!  Lentamente lentamente!

Our unofficial motto of Mountain climbing is Pole Pole, meaning slowly-slowly in Swahili. By taking your time and enjoying the climb each day, taking plenty of rest stops and photographs, and drinking 3–4 litres of water daily, you can minimise the effects of mountain sickness. By far the best way to aid acclimatisation and to give you the best possible shot at the summit is to take a rest day. A rest day involves a short morning trek to a higher altitude for lunch before returning to camp, or else heading for one lesser-visited camp for some extra exploring and to spend the night before rejoining the main trail. Some beautiful walks above (4500m) can be used for acclimatisation, as well as providing spectacular views most climbers don’t get to see. Taking it slow, eating well, resting well and taking a drink every few minutes (the platypus-style water bags that go in your pack and allow you to drink hands-free are very useful for this) will go a long way to getting you up the mountain and making your time as enjoyable as possible.

During the tour,

1. Go slowly for the first hour (1 hour) of the tour in order to allow the body to warm up slowly. Climbing too fast must be avoided.
2. Rest, eat, and drink if possible every 2–3 hours. You should eat a little and drink plenty, even if you are not hungry or thirsty. Consume a diet rich in complex carbohydrates (biscuits, granola bars, nuts, power bars, etc.). Do not drink alcohol before you get to your camp in the mountains. Alcohol causes depression in your breathing, it also causes dehydration and mimics acute mountain sickness, Hyperventilation is the key to acclimatisation.
3. Children and older people have fewer physical reserves than adults; they need to rest, drink, and eat more often compared to adults.
4. Above 2,500–3,000 m, if the terrain allows it, don’t increase the sleeping altitude by not more than 30500 altitude metres every 24 hours and spend an extra night at the same altitude every third day of climbing. If possible, do not sleep at the highest point reached on that day. The golden rule is to climb high and sleep low.

If something happens,

1. In case of deterioration of the weather, descend from summits and ridges, and leave via Ferrata, high trees or power line poles in the storm. Don’t shelter in small caves or under overhangs.
2. Injured or ill people should not be left alone. (Note: the language barrier is a risk factor! The person who stays with the patient should speak his/her language. Finish necessary treatment on the patient; protect him/her against further cooling out, and, in major cases, call for help.
3. If somebody doesn’t feel well at any point in the trip, think early (!) about how to descend (return). If you are ill at altitude, your symptoms are due to the altitude until proven otherwise. Don’t climb higher, or, if you are feeling very ill or are getting worse, descend immediately.
4. Keep an eye out for your actual position on the map or use GPS navigation. Knowledge of your correct position will help locate you quickly in case of emergency and rescue.

To be precise:

Climbing a mountain can be an exhilarating adventure, but it also comes with inherent risks. Prioritising health and safety is paramount to ensuring a successful and enjoyable climb. Here’s a comprehensive guide:

Preparing for the Climb:

1. Physical Fitness: Ensure you’re in good physical condition before attempting a climb. Regular cardiovascular exercise, strength training, and flexibility exercises are essential.
2. Acclimatisation: If climbing at high altitudes, acclimatise properly to prevent altitude sickness. Ascend gradually, allowing your body time to adjust to the reduced oxygen levels.
3. Training: Practice climbing techniques, use of equipment, and emergency procedures before the climb. This includes rope handling, belaying, and self-arrest techniques.
4. Gear Check: Inspect all climbing gear before the ascent. Ensure it’s in good condition and appropriate for the terrain and weather conditions.
5. Weather Forecast: Monitor weather conditions closely. Avoid climbing in severe weather, and be prepared for sudden changes in weather patterns.

On the climb:

1. Stay Hydrated: Drink plenty of water to stay hydrated, especially at high altitudes. Dehydration can exacerbate altitude sickness and impair performance.
2. Nutrition: Consume nutritious, high-energy foods to fuel your climb. Pack lightweight, high-calorie snacks that are easy to eat on the go.
3. Buddy System: Never climb alone. Always have a climbing partner or be part of a group. Stay within sight and earshot of each other, and communicate frequently.
4. Slow and steady: Pace yourself to conserve energy and prevent exhaustion. Know your limits, and don’t push beyond them.
5. Safety Equipment: Use appropriate safety equipment at all times, including helmets, harnesses, ropes, and anchors. Double-check knots and harness buckles.
6. Route Finding: Stick to established routes and trails. Avoid shortcuts or deviating from the planned path, as it can lead to dangerous terrain or getting lost.
7. Weather Monitoring: Continuously assess weather conditions during the climb. Be prepared to retreat if conditions deteriorate rapidly.

Emergency Preparedness:

1. First Aid Kit: Carry a well-stocked first aid kit, including supplies for treating common injuries, altitude sickness, and emergencies.
2. Communication: Bring a fully charged mobile phone, two-way radio, or satellite communication device to call for help if needed.
3. Emergency Shelter: Pack an emergency shelter such as a lightweight tent, bivy sack, or emergency blanket in case you need to wait out a storm or unexpected delay.
4. Know Emergency Procedures: Familiarise yourself with emergency procedures such as self-rescue techniques, administering first aid, and signalling for help.
5. Leave No Trace: Respect the environment by minimising your impact. Pack out all trash and waste, and avoid disturbing wildlife or vegetation.

By following these guidelines and prioritising safety at all times, you can enjoy a memorable and safe climbing experience. Remember, the mountain will always be there, so it’s better to retreat and try again another day than to push yourself into a dangerous situation.